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Zeroing a new scope can eat a whole range trip. A cheap laser bore sighter gets you on paper before you fire a shot.
I unboxed the WOLFROAD laser bore sighter, the kind that goes in the end of the barrel, and checked its dot against a rifle I’d already zeroed at 50 yards. Here’s what’s in the kit and how close it got.
- Cheap enough to try without breaking the bank
- Spacers center it in different barrel sizes
- Long rod reaches past a muzzle brake
- Dot landed close to the zeroed reticle in my test
- Not dead center on the reticle, so you still fine-tune at the range
- Spacer sizing is easy to misread (read the numbers)
- Alignment is best with the battery case facing straight up
▶ Watch the full review on YouTube
Why I switched from a chamber bore sight
I already had a laser bore sight shaped like a .223 cartridge that goes in the chamber. I figured the barrel would help focus the light, but honestly it didn’t work that well, even with a 16-inch barrel.
Muzzle-end units like this one are the type a lot of guys who sight in rifles and zero scopes really like, and at under $20 it was an easy one to try.
What’s in the box
The kit comes with 6 AG13 batteries, the laser itself (a long, slender rod on the back with the laser out the front), a little Phillips screwdriver, an Allen key, a cap and a set of spacers.
The batteries go into the body and the cap closes it up. The hard-rubber spacers fit different barrel sizes so the laser sits centered.
How to fit it to your barrel
Read the numbers on the spacers instead of trusting your eyes. One looked bigger to me, but the sizing starts at .22 cal, so a small-caliber barrel uses the smallest end piece.
Tightening the screw makes the spacer flare out to fill a larger diameter. The long rod is there so it can reach through a muzzle brake.
From the factory, the best alignment on mine was with the battery case facing straight up. Press it in at the back so it’s centered at both ends.
How close is it to a real zero?
My test rifle was already zeroed at 50 yards. I only had room for about 25 yards, so I pressed the camera to the scope (a 1-4 power optic, set to 4x with the illumination on low).
The laser dot wasn’t right in the center of the circle, but it was within spitting distance. Getting that close before you go to the range makes a huge difference, because then it’s just a matter of dialing it in.
Range tip: use a big clean sheet of paper
Last time, I only had small targets, and with holes already in them it was hard to tell which hit was mine. Next time I’m bringing a big white sheet of paper for zeroing.
Combine that with getting on paper using the bore sighter first, and this is definitely going to be my range buddy. I think it’ll save me a ton of time.
FAQ
Is a muzzle laser bore sighter better than a chamber one?
In my experience, my chamber-style .223 bore sight didn’t work well. This muzzle-end one got the dot close to my zeroed reticle.
What batteries does it use?
AG13 button cells. Six came in the box.
Will it zero my rifle for me?
No. It gets you close so you can be on paper fast; you still fine-tune with live fire.
Which spacer do I use?
Go by the numbers on the spacers, not how big they look. A .22 uses the smallest end piece.
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